The Atlantic coastline of New England hides more than just the roar of surf and the scent of salt‑air. During World War II, countless ships, landing craft, and supply barges scuttled, sank, or were abandoned along its rocky bays and sandy beaches. Decades later, these sites still contain artifacts---uniform buttons, ammunition casings, compass fragments, and even personal effects---waiting to be discovered by the right pair of hands and a well‑tuned metal detector.
If you've ever dreamed of "digging up history" while enjoying a day on the beach, this guide will walk you through the practical steps, equipment choices, and ethical considerations you need to turn that dream into a responsible, rewarding adventure.
Know the History -- Build a Target List
Before you even fire up the detector, spend a few hours researching the specific WWII events that took place along the coast you've chosen. Key sources include:
| Area | Notable WWII Activity | Likely Relics |
|---|---|---|
| Cape Cod, MA | German U‑boat patrols, shipwrecks (e.g., USS Vermont) | Cannon shells, ship fittings |
| Narragansett Bay, RI | Naval training grounds, scuttled landing craft | Uniform buttons, brass fittings |
| Portsmouth Harbor, NH | Coastal defenses, torpedo testing sites | Torpedo fragments, metal plates |
| Martha's Vineyard, MA | Rescue operations, supply drops | Medical kits, radio parts |
| Maine's Penobscot Bay | Shipwreck of USS Ticonderoga (1942) | Engine components, rivets |
Having a shortlist of likely artifact types helps you select the right detector settings and target discrimination levels.
Choose the Right Metal Detector
WWII relics are often made of ferrous (iron/steel) or brass/bronze alloys, which can be deeper or harder to discriminate than the typical beach "coin‑hunt" finds.
| Detector Feature | Why It Matters for WWII Relics |
|---|---|
| Multi‑frequency (e.g., 5‑20 kHz) | Deeper penetration for larger steel objects while still picking up small brass parts. |
| Ground‑Balancing (Automatic or Manual) | Compensates for salty, wet sand and mineralized sea‑water ground, reducing false positives. |
| Discrimination Controls | Allows you to filter out junk (nickel, iron nails) while still hearing brass and copper. |
| Target ID Display | Helps differentiate "high‑value" targets (e.g., "copper" versus "iron"). |
| Water‑proof Coil (8″‑12″) | Essential for surf zones and shallow water work. |
Popular models that hit these marks include the Minelab CTX 3000 , Garrett AT Max , and White's MT‑Series . If you're on a budget, a solid‑state 6‑kHz coil (e.g., Garrett ACE 400) can still perform adequately in dry sand, but you'll need to manually adjust for mineralization.
Gear Up for the Shoreline
| Item | Tips |
|---|---|
| Coiled Rope or Weighted Line | Helps you track your path in soft sand and prevents you from stepping on already‑searched ground. |
| Sturdy Sand Scoop or Small Trowel | A 7‑inch scoop with a serrated edge makes delicate excavation easier. |
| Gloves (nitrile) | Protects hands from sharp metal, sand, and possible contaminants. |
| Waterproof Bags & Labels | Store finds immediately; label with location, depth, and date. |
| GPS Device or Smartphone App | Record precise coordinates (to within a few meters). |
| First‑Aid Kit & Sun Protection | Sunburn, cuts, or a sprained ankle can ruin a day. |
| Permission Documents | Keep a copy of any permits or landowner agreements on hand. |
Legal & Ethical Foundations
- Research Local Regulations -- Each state (and many municipalities) has its own rules regarding metal detecting on public beaches, state parks, and private property. Some areas require a permit; others are strictly off‑limits.
- Respect Protected Sites -- Shipwrecks listed on the National Register of Historic Places or designated as underwater cultural heritage are protected by the Abandoned Shipwreck Act and federal law. Disturbing these sites is illegal.
- Leave No Trace -- Fill any holes you dig, remove trash you find, and avoid trampling fragile dunes or vegetation.
- Report Significant Finds -- If you uncover a historically valuable artifact (e.g., a serial‑numbered gun, intact uniform), notify the appropriate state historic preservation office. This can lead to controlled excavation and proper conservation.
Preparing the Search Area
5.1 Timing
- Low Tide -- Exposes more beach surface and reduces water‑level interference.
- After Storms -- Shifts sand and can bring buried objects nearer the surface.
5.2 Ground‑Balancing
- Turn on the detector and set it to "Manual Ground‑Balance."
- Walk slowly over a clean stretch of sand, allowing the detector to sample the mineralization.
- Adjust the ground‑balance knob until the "soil tone" disappears.
- Switch to "Automatic" for extended searches if your unit offers it; keep an eye on the display for sudden "ground spikes," which may indicate mineral hot spots that need re‑balancing.
5.3 Coil Sweep Technique
- Overlap each sweep by about 50 % (the coil's "footprint" should intersect the previous pass).
- Keep the coil parallel to the sand surface; a slight tilt can increase depth but also raises false signals.
- Use a steady, consistent speed---roughly 1 ft per second.
Interpreting Signals
| Signal Tone | Likely Target | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Sharp, high‑pitched "beep" | Small brass items (buttons, nails) | Quick dig, record depth, replace sand. |
| Low, thudding "buzz" | Large steel objects (cannonball, engine part) | Dig deeper, use a trowel, be patient. |
| Continuous "hum" | Ground mineralization (skip) | Re‑balance or adjust discrimination. |
Most detectors allow you to assign audio tones to target categories (e.g., "high" for copper, "mid" for iron). Customize these before you head out so you can instantly gauge whether a reading is worth investigating.
The Dig -- From Detection to Recovery
- Mark the Spot -- Place a small flag or sand marker to avoid losing the exact location.
- Excavate Carefully -- Start with a shallow scoop. If you hit resistance, switch to a trowel. For deeply buried steel, a small hand‑held sand auger can help.
- Stabilize Fragile Finds -- If a piece looks corroded, wrap it in a breathable cloth (e.g., cotton) and keep it moist with a small spray of distilled water. This slows further oxidation.
- Document -- Take a photo of the find in situ, note the GPS coordinates, depth (estimate in inches or centimeters), and any surrounding context (e.g., other debris, beach vegetation).
- Backfill -- Replace the sand, tamp gently to prevent future tripping hazards.
Post‑Find Conservation
- Rinse finds in distilled water to remove salt, then pat dry with a lint‑free cloth.
- Do NOT scrub heavily; delicate items can lose historic surface details.
- Store metals in acid‑free tissue within a sealed plastic bag, then place in a cool, dry cabinet.
- Seek Expertise -- For high‑value artifacts (e.g., identifiers, serial numbers), contact a local museum or conservator. Proper cleaning and preservation can turn a rusted fragment into a display‑worthy piece of history.
Sample Itinerary: One Day on Cape Cod
| Time | Activity |
|---|---|
| 06:30 | Arrive at Nauset Beach (low tide). Verify parking permit. |
| 07:00 | Set up detector, perform manual ground‑balance on dry sand. |
| 07:15 | Begin sweep along the southern stretch, focusing on sand dunes where historic shipwrecks are documented. |
| 08:45 | First "low thump" at 3 ft depth -- uncover a M1903 Springfield rifle fragment . Document, conserve. |
| 10:00 | Break -- hydrate, apply sunscreen, review GPS logs. |
| 10:30 | Shift to the northern sector, adjust discrimination to filter out iron nails. |
| 12:15 | "Sharp high‑pitch" signal -- a brass ship's bell liner (≈2 in). |
| 13:30 | Lunch and data entry into field log (Excel or a dedicated detector app). |
| 14:00 | Continue sweep, noting any iron rivets that could indicate a larger wreck (mark for future dive team). |
| 16:30 | Pack up, backfill all holes, store finds in moisture‑controlled bags. |
| 17:00 | Leave the beach as you found it, submit a brief find report to the Massachusetts Historical Commission (optional but encouraged). |
Common Pitfalls & How to Avoid Them
| Pitfall | Solution |
|---|---|
| Excessive Discrimination -- Filtering out iron can make you miss steel ship parts. | Use "low‑to‑medium" discrimination; rely on audio tone to distinguish junk. |
| Ignoring Ground Mineralization -- Saltwater can cause "spikes" that mask targets. | Re‑balance frequently, especially after walking over wet patches. |
| Violating Regulations -- Digging in protected zones leads to fines. | Always check online maps (e.g., USGS and Coast Guard wreck locations) before stepping onto a new area. |
| Improper Conservation -- Rinsing in tap water leaves chlorine residue. | Use distilled water, avoid harsh chemicals, and keep finds moist until they can be professionally treated. |
| Leaving Holes -- Creates safety hazards and damages dunes. | Fill all excavations and compact sand; carry a small hand‑tamper for quick backfilling. |
Final Thoughts
Metal detecting along New England's WWII‑rich shores is more than a hobby; it's a form of stewardship that connects us to the stories of sailors, soldiers, and civilians who once fought and lived on these very sands. By combining careful research, the right equipment, and a respectful mindset, you can uncover tangible pieces of that past while preserving the beaches for future generations.
So charge your detector, respect the coastline, and let the whispers of history guide your next great find. Happy hunting!